Post 22 

Just close your eyes and think of England

This iconic picture captures the sadness, as the nose of Victoria's figurehead is almost submerged. Does she look familiar? (picture courtesy of Lorenzo)

You may remember, I wrote a passionate piece on this blog about the beautiful ship Victoria Golden Hind, back on the 20th February 2021. Below is an exert from that post - take note of the highlighted date...

excerpt from a previous post

You may also recall my piece on Vojtech, my local hero, who I described in that same post. Vojtech left Victoria after it was moved from 7 meters of water, where it was constantly pumped out, to rest on the bottom at the edge of the mangrove lagoon. He tried in vain to get more funds from the owners to replace the failed pumps. He was left with no choice, he had to move on with his life and so he moved into a flat in St Anne about 3 weeks ago. He left Victoria in the hands of Alex.

Alex was a regular overnight visitor and helper on Victoria and his passion and obsession with coconuts were both incredible and sometimes amusing. Alex was receiving advice from all and sundry on how best to save Victoria. But in truth, the moment it was moved onto the seabed, there was only ever one outcome - le dernier chapitre!

Well, the final chapter took less than three weeks to start unfolding. Maybe it could have been delayed had this or that been done, but it was only ever going to end in tears, after the blatant neglect from the owners.

The end started for Victoria on the 5th of April at around 4pm. I'd just return to Beluga, which was anchored about 200m from Victoria. As I started fishing, I noticed that she was leaning hard to starboard. But she'd done this on the previous evening at high water, so I didn't pay too much attention. At 16.10hrs however, I was horrified to notice that she was now leaning at more than 45 degrees. The three onboard at the time managed to escape through a rear cabin window (see picture below) without injury. 

at 4.10pm I captured this picture from Beluga...

Within 30 minutes, about 10 dinghies were milling around her, most just snapping these rare photographs. It never ceases to amaze me how bad news spreads so much quicker than good news - must be in our DNA. But Vojtech had already started the clear-up operation with Alex, Phil and Lorenzo.

The following day, a group of dedicated members of her community were diving inside her to remove pollution hazards and items worth saving. A pile of mattresses grew on the bank and we all took our share of them to deposit in the marina's rubbish tip some 3km away. 

For anyone reading this post thinking that the lining up of the date 5th April was fore-planned, I have this to say to you. 

Victoria's final chapter started not because of any covert plan to sink her. It started because of the constant stream of lies and broken promises that could no longer be tolerated by the ones that really cared about her here in Martinique.

The End of an Era

In the process of keeping Victoria afloat, Roni, Carlito and latterly Vojtech created a special community aboard Victoria since she was first brought to Martinique. All visitors were made to feel welcome and that included me. 

Preparing for his next role, Vojtech was born to be a movie star...

I was lucky enough to have spent around 12 evenings and nights aboard her since my first visit last Christmas day. It's a bit spooky that this final chapter for Victoria started the day after Easter Sunday... but then if you have faith like me, maybe it's just a sign...

Another Local Heroine of Mine

Hanna runs the co-working office for Blue Working, based here in the marina at le Marin. I've been using the excellent facilities quite frequently, especially during the purchasing process of Beluga.

Hanna and Puddy Tat aboard her lovely boat

Hanna is Norwegian, multi-lingual and has previously worked in several European countries including Spain, England and France. Her father built his own Ferro-concrete yacht and she and her sister grew up on it before and after their land-based schooling. Hanna graduated in business studies and risk management and now lives on her own boat that's berthed in the marina here with her beloved cat, Moustache

Hanna's project is to provide a forward-looking facility for the local businesses, bars and restaurants in le Marin. It's all part of Silvan's (head of the Capitanery) vision to establish le Marin as thee premier marina in the Eastern Antilles. She typically hosts at least one presentation a week aimed at her target audience. I have to say that the audience's apathy to change, would drive me insane. 

For example, a presentation by a local entrepreneur on creating a web presence for bars and restaurants was attended by just two restauranteurs. Incredible when only 2 restaurants based in this area have any web presence at all, let alone taking bookings automatically, without tying up any work-shy staff.

I also attended a presentation from a small company based in Fort-de-France. They produce both plastic and metal parts using a 3D printer. They explained the potential benefits for visiting sailors who really struggle to wait typically two to three months for their spare parts to arrive. It remains to be seen whether it'll happen though. But if normality ever returns, the untapped potential for a state-of-the-art 3D printer in the marina here is absolutely enormous. Imagine turning up here with a broken engine and having an 'identical' replacement part ready to install within 24 hours!!!

For the transient sailor, Hanna also provides peace and quiet in air-conditioned open-plan comfort, with tea and coffee on tap. Here they can update their YouTube videos, blogs, emails, run their businesses, host meetings, make zoom calls, etc.

Hanna knows me well enough now to understand why I was once called 'one of those users' by an IT friend. Hanna has also put up with my lousy IT skills, lack of shoes, drying laundry on the office's balcony and telling one of her other clients to shut up (well those weren't the precise words I used) when he was talking much too loudly in this 'quiet space'...

Yesterday Hanna was interviewed by a local TV news station (Via ATV) here in Martinique to help promote the Blue Working facility...

https://facebook.com/122140697823226/posts/3815099941860598/?sfnsn=mo

Whether the link works though is anyone's guess.

Thanks Hanna for your help and patience over the past three months...

Latest developments in le Marin

A 7pm curfew was introduced a week ago, just to finally ensure the local economy was totally trashed. 

I spent almost 10 hours in the local A&E department of the main hospital in Fort-de-France two weeks ago and despite the local newspaper claims yesterday of three Covid deaths and 136 new cases, when I asked a nurse the same question, she told me that there had been NO new cases during the past month... Well there's a real surprise!

an everyday sight now but it still hurts every time I walk past the looming devastation...

My legs are taking a battering since I've been using my dinghy every day and sailing on Beluga. Her anchor chain is pulled up by an electric motor across two nylon rollers that are held in a forward-pointing, beautiful stainless steel bracket.

Unfortunately, the chain has twice been wedged in a gap next to the forward roller and it took a huge effort from me to pull it free. Twice I slipped while balanced over the seaward side of the pulpit, grazing my shins on the bracket in the process. Ouch!

nasty graze to left shin from anchor retrieval yesterday...

A bit about cooking...

On Easter Sunday evening I prepared dinner for what I thought was going to be 8 people on Victoria. I decided to do a one-pot special, chicken and mushroom casserole with some chopped potatoes and lentils. Good job I took some plain rice to boil just in case the numbers were to swell as they often do...

I am proud to say that I cooked the Last Supper on Victoria - it was enjoyed by about 12 friends...

Since I've been faced with the limp, soggy local fries, I've developed my triple-cooked English chips and they're so crisp! Aah, the simple things in life...

Even after asking the staff in L'Annexe to fry their chips longer for me, they're still pretty pathetic, at least by English culinary standards lol. I'm having homemade chips maybe twice a week now. Naughty but even naughtier with ketchup and mayo...

As mentioned on my To-Do List a few weeks back, I stopped smoking on the 17th of March, so now over three weeks ago!

I'm now pondering whether to leave for St Lucia where I'll need to quarantine for 14 days or wait things out here. Well, I've actually been procrastinating if truth be told...

Thanks for reading my blog, the next one could well be coming from English-speaking St Lucia. God bless you and please take care!

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